Showing posts with label mont st. michel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mont st. michel. Show all posts

Friday, September 30, 2011

Mont St. Michel and Saint Malo

After our trip to the American WWII Cemetery, Danuta, Michel, Dad, and myself stopped by a field full of cows with a view of the distant Mont St. Michel. As we continued our drive post lunch, we could see the mount in the distance as we rolled through the hills of north western Bretagne (Brittany).

When we finally reached our destination, we walked from the car toward the fortress/castle/monastery/cloister/village that is Mont St. Michel. It was impressive enough from the outside alone, but once we crossed the drawbridge and entered the bustling city, it was incredible. As if we'd been transported back in time to the middle ages during a festival, there were banners and colorfully painted signs, narrow paved streets and suits of armor displayed at every other window. I envy the people who still live here and get to experience it on a daily basis because it is truly spectacular.

We climbed the twisting, steep streets, and climbed countless stairs. If there was one complaint about the day, it was that there were too many stairs. I got blisters on my blisters despite being in good, comfortable shoes padded with moleskin. But it was absolutely worth it and entirely beautiful.

I've had incredible luck here with the weather, its been more than a week and every day has been sunny and warm. The day at Mont St. Michel was no exception and so though we perspired as we traversed up the mountain, the sunshine on the water and surrounding greenery was magnificent.

Once we reached the monastery itself though, everything became cool grey stone, it was almost chilly. Winding staircases led us to wide rooms full of historical importance and architectural detail, we passed a giant wooden wheel that was somehow used to lift food to prisoners when the island was used as a prison during the Revolution, and at the very top found the cloister gardens surrounded by some of the prettiest, most intricate stone work I've ever seen.

Once the tour was complete, we made our way down out through the town, tired but satisfied with our journey. It was getting late and we still had a two hour drive before us to get back to Nantes, so Dad and I expected our trip to Saint Malo to be cut. Instead, Michel insisted not only on making our way there, but stopping at various tourist points along the way.

It seems like every single tourist point in France has a set of steps you must climb in order to get the best view or full experience or whatever else. We climbed up the side of a cliff that overlooked the ocean, and at that point I was so tired I was ready to just jump into the water, it looked so cool and inviting after our previous hot walks.

Finally, we made it to Saint Malo. It is a gorgeous seaside town and if you ever have two days to spend in the northwest of France, suggest you spend them visiting Mont St. Michel and Saint Malo, but not both in the same day if you value both your feet and your sanity. After climbing up one last tower to look at the city and the ocean, again, we descended and began looking for somewhere to eat and found a little creperie that was just to our tastes. We shared a bottle of cider which is not like the American version I quickly found out, but was still very good regardless. I had a chocolate banana crepe because after a day of walking, sometimes all you really need is chocolate.

Our drive home through the dark was quiet, I think we all fell asleep from exhaustion, with the exception of our driver and zealous tour guide. All in all, it was a lovely day, I just wish we hadn't had to walk up those last six flights of stairs in the apartment in order to get to bed.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

American WWII Cemetery

Hello once more! It's been quite a while since I posted, ever since the somewhat traumatizing event of the escargot. Your patience shall be rewarded with not one, but two posts today. First up is the side trip we took before heading to Mont St. Michel and Saint Malo. Danuta packed a picnic lunch for us and then the four of us hit the car and drove the two or so hours to the Normandy/Brittany boardeAlign Leftr.

Dad and I were both fairly disappointed that we weren't going to get to see the Normandy beaches after our previous plan fell through, so Michel decided that as a compromise, we would stop at the American Cemetery near Mont St. Michel before continuing on to our picnic lunch.

It was an absolutely beautiful day with clear blue skies, and there were roses in bloom everywhere. Despite all that these men suffered during the war, I couldn't help but think that there wasn't a more beautiful place to be laid to rest. They might not have ever made it home, but the perfect stillness and silence of the area, the shady trees with their collection of birds, and the blossoming roses gave a peaceful, comforting aura.

There was a beautiful little chapel that bore a small altar as well as illustrations of the war in French and English, and stained glass windows. Someone had left a beautiful bouquet of flowers at the steps of the altar, with a ribbon in the colors of the German flag.

The gravestones seemed to go on for miles, though I'm sure this one was much smaller than the other located near the D-day beaches. We walked through, reading some of the names and wishing we had the time to read them all. It was one of the saddest and most beautiful things I'd
ever seen. As we began the walk back to the car, the clock struck noon and the bells of the chapel rang out, not with the usual chimes but with the song of the American military I believe is what Dad called it. The bells played four songs, sad but somehow with an edge of hopefulness or at least as hopeful as one can get in a minor key.

War isn't something that I particularly like, nor do many people. I just don't understand why people feel the need to fight with each other when things could be solved much more simply and with considerably less loss of life. But something about the cemetery and those bells ringing out across the otherwise silent grounds made me both sad and proud to be an American. Those boys gave everything they had to our country, but why did they have to go to war in the first place? Nothing is ever so necessary that young people are taken from their homes, willingly or not, and never get to see their families and home again.