Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Return to the blogosphere

I know, I know. Your reactions are likely the same as my mother's "I'll believe it when I see it."

Well here you are seeing it.

When I last left off I was still in Paris, living the dream despite the last post I left you with was a down one. Now I'm back in the States at university for the second half of sophomore year and I've started working out what I'm going to do with my future.

Classes are planned for the next two years, depending on what my minor is going to turn out to be; the three languages required for my Multi-language/Modern languages major have been selected. French, Italian, and German!

Now all I have to do is decide on my minor. Communications? Economics? European Studies? It's going to be a tough choice. The really good news is either way I get to go back to Europe next year! Back to France in the fall, or off to Austria in the spring.

It all depends on the decisions I make in the coming week, so wish me luck!

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Ups and Downs

So today I woke up feeling down. Nowhere near college dorm second semester depressed, but I was not at my best. Despite that, or perhaps because being crippled by depression last year actually taught me something, I got up, got dressed and went down to the brocante. Getting out of the apartment and leaving my French hosts still asleep at 10:30, I just tried to breathe in the crisp air and enjoy the sights and sounds of markets.

Markets are the ultimate loneliness killer because everyone treats you like you've been best friends for ages. Of course, they're all trying to sell you stuff, but I challenge you to live in a foreign country for three months and not get a little lonely for all those American things we take for granted. Like being able to strike up a random conversation with anyone at any time and being completely sure of what you're saying, and that you'll be able to understand your new acquaintance.

Today though, not even all of my market friends and a tresse chocolat (braided pain chocolat with a glaze) lifted my spirits more than marginally. I dashed down for a conversation with the friendly metro worker to reload my Navigo Pass. The magic smiles of others weren't even working for me. The end of my market cheer up plan came when I heard the strains of a familiar song being played by a very familiar sound. Closing my eyes and inhaling the fall scent I could almost feel the crowd around me turn into my classmates, alumni, and other cheering fans. The bleachers would be cold if we sat, so we stand and huddle for warmth as we cheer on the home team. There was a marching band just like the one back in high school.

I could feel the tears trying to leak free right there in the middle of the market, and I knew it was time to call it. Back in the apartment, I woke a slightly disgruntled host to let me back in before he promptly fell back asleep. Slipping through my temporary room and trying not to wake my temporary roommate, I took a book onto the balcony and read. The Ya-Ya Sisterhood is a great book, one of my new favorites, but it's not exactly a fairy tale to help conquer dark thoughts.

Finally, after a few hours more of moping and pestering my mother via Skype with my need for reassuring words, I gave in to her sage advice: "take a book, go to Starbucks and get a mocha."
In our world, a mocha heals everything. I never really understood how true that was until after snagging a seat in the crowded cafe, 'grande mocha blanc' in hand, I could finally feel those dark clouds lifting. It probably helped that I made something of a friend with a student desperately searching for a place to finish a paper and letting him sit at my table. And the Christmas cups and music and decorations in the background probably had something to do with it. Or maybe it was being able to leave the foreign world I live in and just for the next hour or two, be transported to a familiar place not so far from the world I've known since I was born.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Saturday Snapshot

To participate in the Saturday Snapshot meme post a photo that you (or a friend or family member) have taken then leave a direct link to your post on Alyce's blog At Home With Books.Photos can be old or new, and be of any subject as long as they are clean and appropriate for all eyes to see. how much detail you give in the caption is entirely up to you. Please don't post random photos that you find online.

Today, I made a trip out to the Trocadero. If you've ever seen pictures where people are posed to be holding, squishing, the same size as, etc, with the Eiffel Tower, this is where it's taken. It's a crush of humanity, but still pleasant with the pipe music of the Peruvian band that was playing in the background. And of course there was the eclectic mix of those people who think it's amusing to have their picture taken as if squishing a French monument, mostly British and German tourists.

What I liked best about the Trocadero is the pool of fountains below. Unfortunately on this trip I wasn't able to get spectacular photos of the water, I'll have to go back. That and the metro ride there. It's one of the few lines where you aren't underground, instead you float (read: bump) along above Paris, cross the Seine and see the Statue of Liberty, French style.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Saturday Snapshot

To participate in the Saturday Snapshot meme post a photo that you (or a friend or family member) have taken then leave a direct link to your post on Alyce's blog At Home With Books.Photos can be old or new, and be of any subject as long as they are clean and appropriate for all eyes to see. how much detail you give in the caption is entirely up to you. Please don't post random photos that you find online.

This week was a tough choice. I've been so many places and gotten so many wonderful days worth of shots, it wasn't easy to pick just one. So I decided to narrow it down to two.
They come from the same location, just facing different directions. I probably should have done my research concerning the locks on the bridge by Notre Dame de Paris, but if I had to guess by the names written on them with little hearts I'd say it's something that's supposed to keep couples together forever.

Just across the bridge on the island by Notre Dame, something about the light and water called to me. Water's been calling to me a lot these days, my pictures have been a bit obsessed with it. Anyway, it's a beautiful little boat house/restaurant with an adorable black lab on the deck somewhere, let's call him Waldo, I'll think of a prize if you can find him.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Saturday Snapshot

To participate in the Saturday Snapshot meme post a photo that you (or a friend or family member) have taken then leave a direct link to your post on Alyce's blog At Home With Books. Photos can be old or new, and be of any subject as long as they are clean and appropriate for all eyes to see. how much detail you give in the caption is entirely up to you. Please don't post random photos that you find online.

Today's photo comes from yesterday's traipse along the Champs Elysees because it was a beautiful day, and hey, why not. I started at the Arch de Triomphe and meandered my way down the rue, pausing to take a postcard writing break in one of the lovely little parks that litter the way as you approach the Jardins de Tuileries. As I crossed the street to the Place de la Concorde at the end of the way, these fountains caught my eye with their gold detailing against the dark metal. Apparently, this was the fountain that can be seen in the movie The Devil Wears Prada, in the scene where Anne Hathaway's character decides she's done with the fashion industry and tosses her phone into the fountain.



Wednesday, October 12, 2011

How DVDs have ruined Disney

This doesn't have much to do with France in particular. It's just a plea to bring back for some purposes the trusty old VHS.

Perhaps I'm just prejudiced because I grew up in a VHS household, and some of my best and earliest memories are accompanied by the whirring sound of a tape being played, rewound, or fast-forwarded. It's not that I spent my entire childhood planted in front of the TV watching movies, I was practicing for my future.

With Lumiere I rehearsed the kickline from Beauty and the Beast in that eternal classic song, "Be Our Guest". About twelve years later, there I was onstage doing it. Michael Flatley and my little brother had tap-off show downs during Riverdance and Lord of the Dance. I learned my love of Celtic music, singing, and dancing from those same shows. The Tin Soldier convinced me that I wanted to be a ballerina. Without The Snow Queen, I never would have learned to perfect my icy glare when I performed the title role, forcing my father to guess who I was before I would say hello to him when he came home from work.

But back to the original purpose of the story.

Yesterday in lieu of wandering off to visit the wonderful sites of Paris, I was asked to keep watch over the three-year-old daughter of my host family. What's the best way to entertain children? Disney.

She selected that old classic Bambi. I myself have never been a huge fan, the mother dies, humans are horrible to animals, there's fire, and death, and it just doesn't seem like a kids movie. Anyway, she chose it so we popped in the DVD, she also selected the English version so bonus points for her and more difficulty tuning it out for me. The movie rolled along like it should, perhaps with slightly better picture and less fuzzy sound, Bambi's mother got shot and the little girl turned around to explain it to me in French. Just in case I didn't get the gist just from watching, or the fact that it was the English version.

Still bumping along, I'd managed to hold back my tears and I'm still proud of myself. Then came the climax of the movie, young adult Bambi runs away from the hunters and has just heroically saved love interest Faline from a pack of hunting dogs. He runs, jumps a ravine and we hear the bang of a gun as he spasms in midair and then falls unable to stand on the other side of the ravine. At this point, the DVD froze and then took us back to the main menu. Worst place ever to freeze, now this poor little girl thinks Bambi is dead! She won't know the ending! I tried to go fix it, but the little girl just stood up and walked away, humming a song to herself. When I asked if she wanted to see the end, she just gave me a look that told me I was crazy, though that might have been due to my poor attempts at French.

So as far as I can tell, this child thinks that the movie ends with Bambi getting shot by hunters. Bang, he's dead, end of story. While I'm sure it's much more realistic, since when has classic Disney been realistic? I'm disturbed by this outcome and it just proves that we should all go back to VHS. They could never take you back to the menu to make you think it was the beginning, you have to rewind it, and you'd fee the film wasn't run out, and you'd know there was more of the story to be had once your dad got home and fixed it.

And just to prove my point about Disney not being realistic, I give you this.

The Disney photo had to be doctored color-wise to make it fit.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Musee de Cluny

Three days ago, I took a trip to the Musee de Cluny. My goal was to find a cross stitch tapestry that I could do, and it was a trip that had been put off for several days. The day before I'd been sent to the Musee d'Orsay with the grandmother of my host family. It was a lovely museum, but the Impressionists exhibit was closed and therefore, I didn't get to see what I really wanted to. There will be a post coming about that later.

So to the middle ages museum I went. I'm a big fan of all things to do with the middle ages in case you didn't know, King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table and all that jazz. Also, I promised my youngest brother that I would get him a sword and it seemed like the most likely place to get one.

Musee de Cluny is in an old medieval castle that's been somewhat rehabilitated for use. It's probably the coolest old building I've seen in a while except for Mont St. Michel. As a museum, it doesn't have the grandeur and gilt of the Musee d'Orsay or the Louvre, but the stonework in the courtyard alone is probably more intricate than anything on either of those buildings. What really shocked me the most about all of the art and sculpture in this museum was the sheer amount of detail that everything had. Even the tiniest image on a medallion had a complete face and detailed outfit.


I'm not entirely sure what that is, but it blew me away with the sheer amount of detail. To give you a sense of scale, the entire thing from base to highest turret is only about the size of an average wine glass. Every roof tile, every window is drawn in exquisite detail. It's like a church sculpted on top of a cup. It reminded me a bit of Mont St. Michel, although I'm sure many other churches have such a level of intricacy and pointed spires.

Another thing I noticed about the middle ages based on the things displayed in the museum was this: unicorns are everywhere.
In every tapestry, every large sculpture or group painting, I guarantee if you look hard enough, there's a unicorn. The Musee de Cluny is of course the home of the famous tapestry Lady with a Unicorn which I discovered is actually part of a series of tapestries that depict women with unicorns. There was even an actual "unicorn horn" on display, with a description below explaining that it was actually just the tusk of a narwhal that had been given to some king sometime long ago and called a unicorn horn. Still, it was very impressive.

There were also chambers that housed stained glass windows taken from various churches and castles around Paris. Dark rooms with the windows lined up and backlit, spilling their multi-colored pictures onto the floor. Saints, kings, hunts, animals, more unicorns, all are the various subjects depicted in the vibrant windows. The detail in these windows too is absolutely incredible.

The whole museum in itself only took about an hour and a half to get through, and the gift shop didn't have my tapestry. It did have a sword for my brother, but as much as I love him I'm not willing to spend the 111 euros it would take, plus awkward questions in custums, to bring it home. Sorry bud, maybe next time.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Saturday Snapshot

To participate in the Saturday Snapshot meme post a photo that you (or a friend or family member) have taken then leave a direct link to your post on Alyce's blog At Home With Books. photos can be old or new, and be of any subject as long as they are clean and appropriate for all eyes to see. how much detail you give in the caption is entirely up to you. Please don't post random photos that you find online.

This past Wednesday I took a trip to the Musee d'Orsay. Afterwards, I walked to the nearby bridge over the Seine to take a few photos. I don't know what I like about this particular picture so much, but something about how the clouds and the river and the towers of Notre Dame are visible in the background catches my attention.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

The Myth of "Free" Wifi

When it became certain that I would be heading to Paris, the first thing that I immediately wanted to know was: will there be wifi? I'm something of an internet junkie, but keeping in touch with my family via facebook, skype, and twitter, and of course the writing of this blog, were all important factors. Therefore I felt reassured when I looked on several sites back home and was assured by all that wifi would be everywhere and free with the purchase of a coffee or pastry, something that I would buy anyway.

Ladies and gentlemen, after a day searching the Louvre Carousel, I can now tell you that this it a lie. If truly free wifi exists in Paris, I've yet to find it and in such a place as this, rife with cafes and shops and a popular tourist attraction lacks it, then where on earth are we expected to find it?

I started my mission from the apartment early this morning. Computed packed with the cord and adapter just in case battery power ran low. Complicated metro stops later I was beneath the Louvre in the underground shopping center/miniature Paris with its many restaurants, cafes, boutiques and gift shops. Starbucks was my first choice and the sign in the window advertising free wifi seemed promising so I bought breakfast and a coffee to get me started. The barista handed me a card with a username and password in order to fetch the wifi. Three cards later, my computer and the wifi network were still having none of each other. So instead I sat with the paperback I thought to bring ahead while I finished my muffin and coffee.

A comfy padded bench in the middle of an underground sort of museum looked like a fantastic place to situate myself two hours later after I'd given up on my old standby for good. A plethora of free networks presented themselves to me and none required a password. Overjoyed, I tried connecting to the first only to be taken to a page that declared it would need my credit card number. Not happening. So I flipped to the next one which took me to another page that cheerfully stated in bright bold lettering that I needed to put in a username and password that could be purchased from a nearby restaurant. Great.

Five attempts at connecting and countless more tries at hacking into a network later, I gave up until a familiar glowing yellow sign caught my eye.

McDonalds. It was one o'clock, I'd been traversing the Louvre Carousel searching for wifi for a long time and the muffin of the morning seemed so far away. I'd sworn to myself I wouldn't stoop to eating in McDonalds while I was surrounded by so many fantastic little cafes, but I'm an American at heart and by this time was desperate. So I mounted the escalator and the first thing I saw was the little card standing by the cash register: wifi gratuit. Free wifi.

A chicken wrap is sitting comfortably in my stomach as I sit in one of the incredibly more stylish than the American version seats, connected to free wifi as I write this. And all I had to do was enter my name and email. And for the record, French McDonalds tastes better than the American version.

Monday, October 3, 2011

A Wonderful Day


Today, I had a wonderful day.




















That's right, I spent my day at the Louvre.

It started with taking the metro from my host family's apartment. There are two metro stations within close walking distance, one required only one transfer but was much harder to get to with the twisty turny streets of Pairs, so I chose the much more straightforward way from the house, but difficult metro routes. Two transfers later, I was at the Louvre.

I traipsed blindly through the Rochefort wing, looking for the few works I knew would be hidden away somewhere in the immensity that is the old palace. For three hours, I was surrounded by statues, the works of French painters and medieval carvings and illuminations. It was all very beautiful, but the smell of coffee and the lunch hour drew me away from the beauty.

Let me just say that to an American girl who spent the summer becoming addicted to coffee, Starbucks is almost as good as any work of art. That melusine/mermaid logo starts to look like an angel if a system used to a caffeine fix hasn't had any since the plane ride over to Europe more than a week ago. So one white mocha and a sandwich later, I was rejuvenated and ready to hit the galleries again.

Winged Victory is one of my favorite sculptures, perhaps my favorite though its not like I have extensive knowledge on art of any kind. Maybe it's the way they have it positioned, it's the largest piece of art in a sparsely decorated grand room located just at the top of a staircase and directly between two others. It is absolutely magnificent and I was lucky enough to get a clear picture of it as seen above.


A helpful security guard later, I was standing in front of my second favorite statue, the Venus de Milo. For something so famous, it was in a room shockingly crowded with other pieces and not so many tourists. Either that or I just got really lucky that hardly anyone was there because I was able to get another really clear and uncrowded picture.


Leonardo DaVinci might be the most famous Italian artist, but my heart belongs to another. Oh I made the walk by of the Mona Lisa, but I didn't wait in the line to see her up close, I snapped a photo from afar. No, in my opinion the best Italian artist of the Renaissance was Alessandro Boticelli. His settings, his colors, his models and poses, and just everything about his art makes me happy. I absolutely adore La Primavera, though sadly it and most of his works are in Italy. Still, the Louvre does have another of his paintings that I spent time getting acquainted with.

Venus and the Three Graces

After the Mona Lisa, I was tired and ready to see some sunshine. Stopping once more at the Starbucks, I got an iced version of my earlier mocha and headed to the Tuileries. Just a small side note: those grates in the ground? Yeah, they blow air out of them. I wasn't aware of that until I walked over one and my skirt did a Marilyn Monroe much to the appreciation of the construction workers nearby. Thank goodness for leggings.

The Tuileries were absolutely amazing, and though I've only ever been to Paris before in the spring, I've decided that fall is the best time to come out of those two seasons. The changing colors of the leaves, the late blooming roses and other flowers, birds chirping their last songs before winter, incomparable.

So that was my fantastic day. I'm nursing sore feet and a new, though significantly smaller blister than the last one, but it was all worth it.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Day 1: A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step

Preparations for this trip have been going on for ages, organizing places for me to stay, getting packed, getting presents for friends, and trying to decide if I was flying alone or not.

I am incredibly terrified of flying. It may not be a primal fear that made my cry as a baby like my distaste for elevators, as my mother likes to point out, but it's much more emotionally and occasionally crippling. So after much begging and pleading, we finally decided about four days before I was set to leave that my dad would fly over with me, stay for a week, and then go home. I'm not allowed to worry about what happens when I fly home, we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. Good thing he came with me too, because as we were going down the little shoot they send you through to give you a taste of the claustrophobia and increase the tension before actually getting on the plane, I tried to make a run for it. Did I mention earlier that the thought of flying is emotionally crippling?

Well Dad and the very kind and understanding stewardess finally got me on the plane, and after a last ditch call for reassurance from Mom, the xanax finally worked and I calmed down enough to not hyperventilate anymore and managed to keep it together for the rest of the ride. As we were disembarking, the woman of the couple who'd been sitting behind us patted my arm and assured me I'd done fine. It was very kind of her as I'd been quite embarrassed about the scene I made before the drugs kicked in to calm my anxiety. She then informed me that she and her husband would be flying all the way to Paris with us. I'm sure she had her fingers crossed that this time they would be nowhere near us.

A four hour layover in JFK, and a couple hours
of getting sick later, We were ready to board the much larger and longer flight that would take us to Paris.

Here's dad looking much happier and better than me in the airport during the layover.

Boarding this one wasn't nearly so bad because, for some reason my fear of planes is like my fear of snakes: the smaller it is, the scarier. Also, I remembered to take my xanax on time before the flight and was sufficiently chill by the time it was ready to go.

We made it to our seats and right across the aisle was the couple from the first flight. The husband and I sat across the aisle from each other and had a silent bonding over our mutual fear of flying as we gripped the arm of our seats and clutched the hand of our travel companion. I'll admit it though, once the plane got in the air, it was very pleasant. They played that movie with Russell Brand, the remake of the old British comedy Arthur, which I didn't watch.

Three hours of Merlin and four Sudokus later, they served dinner which was quite good. They showed the newest episode of 30 Rock and I fell asleep in the first ten minutes of Parks & Rec. Dad and I got lucky, we were in the middle column, but there wasn't a third person in our row so he had more leg room and I was able to lounge across the extra seat. Breakfast was a nice warm croissant with strawberry jam, orange juice, and coffee.

A bumpy but successful landing later, we were in France! We collected our baggage and took the train from Charles De Gaulle into Paris. After some freshening up, and major confusion, we found the lockers and stowed our bags. Our train to Nantes on the west coast of France didn't leave until seven that night and it was about eight in the morning. We struck out from the Montparnasse station, passed the huge black skyscraper that is, I believe, the only skyscraper actually in Paris instead of the suburbs, and found ourselves only a few blocks away from one of our favorite places in Paris.

The Jardin de Luxembourg is beautiful. I'd never seen it anytime except for the spring, so the
early signs of fall were new to me, but it is equally lovely. We walked for a while and saw the chateau in the middle of the gardens and then went to find lunch on Rue Mouffetard where we found a great little bistro/take away that had an olive oil drenched foccacia for dad, and a crepe with ham, cheese, and egg for me. They also had a fantastic chocolate gelato with actual bits of French chocolate in it.but just as lovely. We walked around, gazed at the lovely

After lunch, it was back to the gardens for us, and we both took a brief nap in the fantastically comfortable chairs by the pond. We still had a few hours until the train, but neither of us wanted to miss it so we set off for the station to claim our luggage and wait. A train ride later, we were in Nantes and our French friends Michele and his daughter Marie were waiting to take us back to the family home. Michele and his wife, Polish born Danuta, have six children, but only the youngest is home. Dinner was absolutely delicious, ham and melon, then a chicken and tomato pastry and salad, followed by the cheese, and then finally a fantastic chocolate cake garnished with strawberries.

So that was yesterday, and here we are in France!

Crazy Ideas

For the time being, let's pretend like all pasts posts don't exist and none of you have any idea who I am.

We're introduced at a party and, as usual, talk turns to plans for the future and what we do for jobs/education etc. In May, I couldn't have told you anything specific, just an awkward shoulder shrug and silence and then a desperate jump to a different topic. Well as of July, I could finally give people definite answers: I'm going to France for three months. This, shockingly, was my mother's idea, she's been a Francophile for forever and has passed on to me not only her eyes and questionable attitude about rules but her love for the French and France as well.

Now, most people have been asking me if this is a study abroad thing, something to do with school, and I've been saying no, this has nothing to with school or any other educational organizations. But since I've been here, a grand total of about fifty hours, I have a new answer for that question: Yes. It is a study abroad, a study of myself, of languages, of culture, of life. It may not have any scholastic value, unless I end up a language major which at this rate looks very likely to happen, but the value I will get from this experience is better than anything I could get at school.